Pattern Fitting and Alteration for Beginners by Mae Gallagher

Author:Mae Gallagher
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: pattern fitting coutre sewing alteration book, sewing stitching embroidery haute couture fashion, pattern fitting plus size confidence simplicity, couture sewing needles designer trims haute, couture sewing books techniques book tailoring, patterns for clothes fashion style art, dressmaker dressmaking kit book for beginners
Publisher: CraftMills Publishing LLC
Published: 2020-12-06T00:00:00+00:00

In the next chapter you will learn methods of pattern fitting.

Chapter Four: Methods of Pattern Fitting

You picked out a pattern based on the client’s height and built, circumference and posture. The next step is to fit the pattern to the specification of the person. Do not wait until you finish the garment before fitting it to the client. The most efficient way of proceeding with alteration is to customize the pattern first to the client before executing it on fabric. Make sure that you find a time to meet with your client to fit the pattern.

When you are fitting a client with patterns, utilize your full length mirror to analyze your client. Let them stand in a comfortable position, advising them to assume a good posture so that the final fit would be perfect. Provide a space where they can privately change. too cramped quarters may force them to assume positions they are not comfortable with. Advise them to wear snug-fitting underwear that they can comfortably display. Fitting involves some degree of intimacy with your client so make sure that they also feel comfortable to be in their underwear with your presence.

There are three methods of fitting patterns on your clients: pinned, trial garment and measurement methods. Choose the one that you feel most comfortable with. They are arranged here in the order most appropriate for beginners to experts. When starting out, it is good to use the pinned pattern. As you fit more clients, you will have a greater pattern and fitting sense so you can proceed with the other pattern fitting methods. Just make sure that you don’t cause too much stress on your client with the fitting method you use.

Pinned Method

This pattern fitting method uses cutouts of your pattern and you literally fit them on the client. What is good with this method is that you don’t use up the fabric itself before you actually need to cut it. This is the quickest fitting method to use so you don’t delay the project. Since you are working just with paper patterns, you will need to exert more effort at imagining how the actual fabric will look like. But this method is best for figures who are easy to fit or if you are making loose garments.

As we have explained, slopers are the basic patterns you will encounter. When you are assembling the slopers into blocks or into a complete dress, it is good that you have a sense of how to place them. Do not make them too far apart from each other as when assembling the sleeves with the bodice. It will make the client bigger than they actually are. Do not place the patterns too close together because it will then give a false illusion of being too small. The proper method is really to overlap the patterns with allowances for movement. The overlap must just be right that will make the wearer comfortable when just standing and also moving about.

Before Fitting

I will now outline some basic steps on how to assemble the pattern before you meet a client.

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